Friday, July 24, 2009

Donegal

Its lilting musical ring has ensured its inclusion in an endless number of ballads and songs. The place name itself is taken from the Gaelic meaning 'the fortress of the stranger,' and perhaps ensures that nobody is allowed to feel like a stranger in the County. The excessive friendliness of the people is occasionally mistaken for prying curiosity, which indeed it sometimes is! A series of questions, not necessarily impersonal, leveled at the average tourist or stranger by proprietor, clientele or both in any of the many little pubs scattered throughout the county is the locally accepted mode of befriending the outsider. Upon answering, a reciprocal revelation of facts from the interrogator will distinguish him from prying inquisitor and a friend will have been acquired. In the case of the bashful native icebreaking greeting may be required from the stranger to introduce to him someone it would appear later had been his friend for life. The natives are zealously loyal to their county and are loath to leave it for another land or even another county!

Although geographically Donegal is very much a part of Northern Ireland, politically it belongs to the Republic of Southern Ireland. Consequently its insular position has resulted in certain deprivations; in poor roads and communications, both of which are being subjected to an intensive overhaul at the moment. But then the narrow twisted winding roads almost complement the landscape. It is a land of extremities; it boasts deep valleys and high rugged mountains, jagged surf-sprayed cliffs and golden flat wave-washed beaches, heathery boglands and grassy fertile lands, often on the same small farm ensuring the farmer total self sufficiency, growing his own food and cutting his own turf. A heaven for the hippy of yesteryear!

Emigration was once the scourge of Donegal as indeed it was of the whole west coast. Ruins of uneconomic farmsheds remain as reminders of the twin pestilence of famine and emigration of the past century. But the ebbing tide has been stemmed, and the latest census shows an increase in the population of the county for the first time since the early 19th Century.

For the Archaeologically minded, Donegal boasts two of the most impressive stone forts in the Country. Aileach na Ri, home of the Kings of Ulster in the north of the county, and Doon Fort near Portnoo which is accessible by rowing boats which are available for hire. Dolmens abound, one of the best examples being found in Kilcooney. Of the castles, Doe Castle, home of the MacSweeneys and Donegal Castle once of the greatest castles in the province and fortress of the renowned O'Donnells, merit visits though they are now only shadows of their former splendour.

Glencolumbcille is a favourite Mecca with Archaeologists offering examples of a great number of Antiquities and a meticulously erected folk village demonstrating the various modes of living in Donegal over the past two centuries. Slieve League offers to the visitor a superb combination of thrusting sea, precipitous cliff and lofty mountain. Errigal presents a challenging climb to those endowed with an adventurous spirit and the stamina to pursue it.

The coastline is dotted with cute little villages which become the hub of activity in the Summer and virtually hibernate for the rest of the year. Coastal islands of all sizes abound. Aranmore being the largest and most accessible, only 20 minutes from Burtonport. Its population is bilingual as indeed is the population of most of the coastal region where the lapping waves lend an orchestral backing to the lilting Irish nuances.

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